Yunnan Spring Greetings (IV)
“Every day an adventure, every day a joy.” It might sound a bit cliché, but here, one experience really does chase the next. We actually cancelled our planned trip to Mangshi (芒市) because Heshun and its surroundings simply have too much to offer. A couple we are friends with drove all the way from Beijing, accompanied by another couple, just to see us. After a proper reunion feast, we set off the next day to find seven historic bridges.
A Journey to Seven Historic Bridges
Bridges have always fascinated me, primarily because they connect. This observation has even shaped my outlook on life. I return to this idea in Doors Between Worlds, through entrances in China and Austria.
At the very first bridge, we ran into a problem—we were hopelessly lost in an extremely remote area. Then we met an 83-year-old woman. She immediately offered to show us the way—it was a long walk. I was the first foreigner she had ever seen, but she wasn’t shy in the slightest. We chatted away, with each of us understanding only half of what the other said.
This encounter led to this photo, which is already one of my favorites of the trip.
Traditional Timber Engineering
The historic wooden bridges we visited looked fragile or weathered from a distance. Inside, I was surprised by how substantial their timber structures felt. Their framework gave us a close view of the skill involved in traditional Chinese carpentry.
They rely on traditional mortise-and-tenon joints (sunmao, 榫卯), which allow wooden elements to be joined without relying primarily on metal fasteners. More than simple crossings, these covered bridges also provide sheltered spaces where people can stop, rest and gather.
Some photos from that area.
The Daoist Heights: Yunfeng Shan
Next, a few words on the impressive Yunfeng Shan. Pure Dao – Shi Dong Si describes a quieter temple encounter on the same journey.
Yunfeng Shan, or “Cloud Peak Mountain,” is a sacred Daoist site near Tengchong (腾冲), famous for its temples perched dramatically on the steep mountain peak. According to Tengchong’s official account of Yunfeng Shan, the summit Daoist complex was founded in 1635. The physical ascent itself seems particularly fitting in a Daoist setting: the path follows the mountain rather than overcoming it, gradually leaving the everyday world below.
Accessing the temple is an adventure in itself. A shuttle bus and a cable car take you quite high up, but then 676 steps await you. That might not sound like much, but the final third is extremely steep and draining, especially combined with the high altitude. The reward for the effort is a fantastic 360° view—and a slight sunburn.
After this fifth exhausting mountain climb, it has become clear: we need to shift down a gear.
The Volcanic Landscape and Hot Springs of Tengchong
The region around Tengchong (腾冲) is dotted with numerous hot springs—some reaching temperatures high enough to boil eggs. A hot-air balloon gave us another view of this volcanic landscape. The Smithsonian’s Global Volcanism Program identifies Tengchong as a volcanic field; the hot springs are another reminder of the region’s geothermal character.
Back near Heshun, a pavilion was reflected in the quiet water.
The Kingdom of Camellias
The camellias (山茶花) were one of the pleasures of this journey. Camellia reticulata (滇山茶) has a long history of cultivation in western Yunnan, including Tengchong. The Flora of China records garden forms selected over hundreds of years for their large flowers. Standing beneath these flowering trees, I could understand the enthusiasm.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I – Spring Greetings · Part II – Just Shaxi · Part III – Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Part IV – Every Day an Adventure · Part V – Pure Dao · Part VI – Along the Tea Road · Part VII – South of the Clouds · Part VIII – Customs, Traditions and Religion · Part IX – Buddha’s Light · Part X – Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey
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Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Pure Dao · South of the Clouds
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