Yunnan Spring Greetings (VIII)
Customs, Traditions, and Religion: As previous posts suggest, this journey has been heavily influenced by the Dao. Immersing myself in this mindset often creates a sense of “flow,” in which unexpected events seem to unfold naturally. A more prosaic mind might simply call them coincidences. Regardless of the label, I want to share four of these chance encounters.
A Modern Wedding Ritual
While hiking in the mountains, we stumbled upon a wedding party. The wedding convoy had stopped at a spot high in the mountains.
The bride and groom stepped out of their vehicle while the surrounding cars drove in circles around them. The circular movement expressed a wish for completeness and harmony for the couple, captured in the phrase yuan yuan man man (圆圆满满).
Because we had traveled from so far away, our unexpected congratulations were interpreted as a particularly lucky omen for the couple.
The Morning Chant at Laifeng Temple
Another act of serendipity led us to the Laifeng Temple (来凤寺). We arrived just in time to witness a mesmerizing scene: around 50 women, clad in simple lay robes, reciting ancient liturgies in perfect unison.
Morning chanting, or zǎokè (早课), is part of daily practice in Chinese Buddhist temples. Fo Guang Shan’s account of temple life describes it as a practice of attention, repentance and gratitude.
These women were likely lay Buddhists (upāsikās), dedicating their morning to spiritual cultivation.
Standing there, I felt the rhythm of the chanting settle around me. For a while, I simply listened.
The Old Caravan Tavern: A Tea House Inauguration
Another stroke of luck began with a mundane search for dinner. No sooner had we stepped out of our car than a charming lady approached us, insisting we join her private reception.
We initially declined out of politeness, but she genuinely insisted that our presence would be an honor. Accepting her invitation turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
The occasion was the opening of her stylish new tea business. But this was not just any shop; the building itself was formerly a historic tavern for the ancient tea caravans.
Our hostess, a well-known local figure and former dancer who now teaches etiquette, presided over the space with grace.
The Calligraphy Test
Hardly had we entered when I was handed a brush and asked to calligraph an auspicious word for the opening. Task passed. 😎
My Chinese Calligraphy portfolio shows how this traditional brush practice connects with my painted and experimental work.
My ability to speak the language, handle a brush, and perhaps my age, immediately granted me a certain prestige. Of course, following proper etiquette, one plays this down. This ritual instantly broke the ice, creating a warm, unforced atmosphere where we felt like old friends rather than strangers.
Roasted Tea: An Olfactory Art
There is much I could tell about this evening, but I want to focus on one rare and special experience: the tasting of roasted tea (烤茶).
What sounds simple is, in fact, a sophisticated and lengthy procedure. Here, the leaves were roasted in a metal pot over the fire before the tea was prepared. The aroma changed as we waited. A local-government account from Zhenyuan describes a related hearth-tea tradition using an earthenware pot; the equipment and method can vary.
Sitting around the open fire pit, we grilled small snacks while waiting for the delicious main courses. The process is slow, deliberate, and deeply communal.
We intended to leave early, but the departure kept getting postponed. Four hours and a final dance later, we left the circle with full stomachs and much joy in our hearts.
The Daoist Farewell
In contrast to the joy of the wedding and the serenity of the temple, we also witnessed a solemn Daoist funeral.
Paper offerings formed part of the ritual. I understood them as provisions for the deceased in the afterlife, but I would be cautious about assigning a precise name or function to each object.
Watching the offerings burn brought the day’s other encounters into a different light. The wedding, the chanting and this farewell each gave us a glimpse of how ritual enters everyday life.
The Hidden Temple: An Unlikely Pair
This Daoist ritual took place in front of a temple off the radar. We found it by chance and saw few other visitors. It isn’t magnificent in the traditional sense, but it is fascinating for one surreal detail. On one wall, we found a depiction of Lei Feng (雷锋) beside panels quoting the Analects (论语) and the Daodejing (道德经). The “Learn from Lei Feng” campaign began in 1963, before the Cultural Revolution.
Modern political slogans, Confucian teaching and a Daoist text shared the same temple wall. I had not expected to find them together here.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I – Spring Greetings · Part II – Just Shaxi · Part III – Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Part IV – Every Day an Adventure · Part V – Pure Dao · Part VI – Along the Tea Road · Part VII – South of the Clouds · Part VIII – Customs, Traditions and Religion · Part IX – Buddha’s Light · Part X – Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey
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