Yunnan Spring Greetings (VI)
Along the Ancient Tea Horse Road: From Fengqing, we took a taxi to Lushi (鲁史), another historic stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Although only 80 km away, the drive took over four hours. We wound our way down from an altitude of around 2,000 meters through sometimes daunting switchbacks, only to climb back up again several times.
The reward for this white-knuckle drive was breathtaking scenery and the crossing of the Mekong River.
Lushi: An Old Caravan Town
Lushi was once an important trading station where tea from the surrounding region was collected and prepared for transport along the Tea Horse Road.
China’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism describes Lushi as a well-preserved historic trading town, with a layout of three streets, seven lanes and a central square. That pattern is still easy to feel when walking its narrow stone-paved streets.
Its history is still visible in the old streets, courtyards and traditional houses that once served merchants and mule caravans travelling along the Tea Horse Road. The central market area and the network of narrow stone-paved lanes still convey something of Lushi’s former importance as a trading town.
The first walk through the village is striking. The alleys are paved with stone, mostly worn and crumbling, yet the houses still radiate a historic splendor.
However, a glance into some of the courtyards reveals much more modest living conditions.
You see mostly older folks, the few children are, as always, adorable.
We found few restaurants open during our stay. Here is the entrance to the one we chose…
…and its kitchen viewed from outside:
The food, however, was surprisingly good. Since cars cannot navigate these narrow alleys, mules still transport heavy goods such as sand—a striking reminder of the caravans that once travelled these routes.
High-Tech in the Highlands
In stark contrast, our hotel offered pure luxury. There were heated toilet seats, automatic flushing and even voice-controlled room functions. “Xiao Yi, Xiao Yi, set the temperature to 24°.” The only thing I had to do myself was take off my socks. And then there was the breathtaking view through the French windows, even from my bed. Here we are, back at Yin and Yang.
On to Lincang
We had a female driver who had to drive the entire dangerous route back, partly at night. She drove us from Lushi to Lincang (临沧)—another four hours away—before facing a ten-hour return trip. An incredibly tough job.
Speaking of accommodation, Lincang offered an upgrade even from Lushi. The hotel here adds robot service to the mix.
Whether you order local delicacies found online, a bottle of wine, or a trendy anti-wrinkle cream, a delivery person drops it at the reception. From there, a robot takes over, calls the elevator, and delivers the goods right to the room door.
After the first third of the trip, dedicated to Daoist and Buddhist temples and endless stair-climbing, we are now moving more horizontally, focusing on landscape and nature. Mostly, at least.
The following photos are from a day trip to Wulao Shan (五老山). Impressive spring landscapes and a rustic farmers’ market.
The Good Life
People here live modestly, yet we encountered many cheerful and welcoming faces. The surrounding landscape is beautiful, with clean mountain air, spring water and much of the food grown locally. Life here certainly has its hardships, but our encounters gave us a glimpse of a rhythm of life very different from that of the cities.
Lincang was surprising in many ways, especially due to an unexpected invitation which I will cover in a later post. The reception took place in a historic tavern associated with the old tea-caravan route. Its richly decorated wooden interior brought us right back to the history of the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
Nakeli
Nakeli (那柯里) offers a very different impression. Another historic stop associated with the Ancient Tea Horse Road, it has been extensively developed for tourism and today presents its caravan history much more visibly than Lushi.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I – Spring Greetings · Part II – Just Shaxi · Part III – Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Part IV – Every Day an Adventure · Part V – Pure Dao · Part VI – Along the Tea Road · Part VII – South of the Clouds · Part VIII – Customs, Traditions and Religion · Part IX – Buddha’s Light · Part X – Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey
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Just Shaxi · South of the Clouds · Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey
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