young ladies in Kunming

Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey

Yunnan Spring Greetings (X)


Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey – Preliminary Remarks

I actually intended to write two or three more articles about my recent trip to China. I started, then stopped again. (Other articles on this can be accessed via this link: TAG: Yunnan). Essentially, I hold back because I am aware that China is usually perceived very distortedly in the West, and I do not want to be seen as a great “friend of China” without ifs or buts.

The topic is also too vast; in this format, I can only touch upon a few points I deem important. The image examples are meant to reflect the tenor of the article—including the idea that one should not take everything too seriously.

lotus stems in PinG An, Yuannan, China
lotus stems in Ping An

Even though I have a certain affinity for China, I am neither blind nor so deluded that I wouldn’t notice the downsides. To avoid overstretching this point: For me, If it comes to traveling, every country in the world functions according to its own rules and laws. Sometimes they are similar to my home country; sometimes significantly different. It is always true that it is not my place to criticize—pointedly and perhaps from a position of arrogance—circumstances that I cannot judge with my limited understanding. Rather, I am interested in learning, observing and reflecting.

time travel. b/w photo of an old Chinese warehouse

Furthermore, wherever I travel, I am always a guest and behave accordingly. If we were invited to dinner at home, it wouldn’t occur to us to criticize an ambiance that doesn’t meet our aesthetics. This perspective creates a good basis for a relaxed togetherness on a trip.


Shared Stories and Human Moments

As mentioned before, we met so many nice people and we learned so much. Here, a friendly peasant tells us wonderful stories [1] about the local wells in Ping An (Jianshui).

Chinese peasant tells a story about wells

At another time, in a good restaurant, our nice, young but inquisitive waitress asked, after a few sentences of small talk made it clear we were a couple: “Aha, I see! Now I’d like to know—did you pick her up, or did she pick you up?” Even the neighboring table laughed heartily.

For me, it holds true that all of us—the overwhelming majority of the world’s population—have the same goals and dreams: we want to lead a happy life, a fulfilling partnership or family, we want our children to fare better one day, and we want to be able to pay our bills without problems or better, to be able to set aside money for rainy days……

Chinese mother with her children and the character Luck
The rightmost symbol is called “fu” (), meaning Happiness.

….or simply that our pets are doing well.

lazy cat in a Daoist temple
lazy cat in a Daoist temple
curious cat in Pu Er, China

The Great Togetherness

This and everything else in our living conditions is largely determined by forces that the individual can hardly change, regardless of whether we live in a country where one can cast a ballot or not. By “forces,” I don’t mean a specific political power, but rather global corporations, major investors, or other global players who move a lot of money and thus power. Since we live in a global village, every move in one part of the globe has repercussions elsewhere. Action leads to reaction, pressure creates counter-pressure—everything is interconnected.

water buffaloes and cars in Yuan Yang

Particularly—and too often neglected today—our respective history, tradition, and culture determine our perspectives. [2] We may try to suppress them or replace them with other topics, but they live on in our subconscious through literature, legends, and artifacts. If it is claimed we learn nothing from history, that may apply to certain societal actions, but history is anchored in our DNA and acts upon society. For better or for worse. This becomes particularly clear when 3,000-year-old statements from fictional gods are used to justify destructive actions in a modern world shaped by globalization and technology.

breakfast time for goldfish in Jianshui
Goldfish and Koi at “breakfast” in the Confucius Temple in Jian Shui

Endless Misunderstandings

These factors are one reason for the many misunderstandings between populations of different latitudes. Chinese people generally do not view the US population nearly as negatively as the other way around. In fact, the USA is often seen as an idol, at least economically. [3]

photo of Chinese mother with baby and a "Yankees" bag

This goes so far that a trend emerged years ago where Chinese people converted from Buddhism to Christianity, reasoning: “What did my religion bring me? I am still poor. If a God can make the USA so rich, it must be the right God.”

Buddhist altar with money
Monetary donations from believers at the Buddhist Jizu Shan (鸡足山, Jīzú Shān) Temple in Yunnan.
rich - free characters on a wall in China
Rich – Free. Wall in Hong Tu Di (红土地).

What is Different there?

Except for the provincial capital, Kunming, and Pu’er, we saw almost no non-Chinese people. This was very different 20 years ago. Why? Today, if you don’t speak or read Chinese and can’t handle Chinese apps, traveling is nearly impossible.

Chinese taxi app
Chinese Taxi-app

Take taxis, for example:

  • The Process: Open app, enter destination, select a car (with transparent pricing), provide a code upon entry to prevent “taxi-snatching,” and get off at the destination.
  • Payment: Handled entirely via app—immediately or days later. If you get out early, the difference is refunded instantly. As long as one has not paid, one cannot order another taxi.

No Tipping: Tipping doesn’t exist, neither in taxis nor restaurants. This ensures transparency and avoids the “tipping society” model.

We drove the entire 3,000+ km of our trip by taxi. (Except for the high-speed train from Kunming to Dali). In the West, this would cost a fortune. While short city trips cost $2–4, our longest journey of 478 km cost about $200 including tolls. What is wonderful for the user is an unavoidable misfortune for the drivers; they must give 30–40% to the operator and pay for taxes and insurance themselves. Which brings us back to global developments.

In China, cash is largely abolished. Deep in the mountains, it’s sometimes better due to competing apps. As a Central European, I find the abolition of cash appalling—it means giving up a cornerstone of freedom. But practically, it reduces crime and corruption through transparency.

Small change in a goldfish pond in a Buddhist temple
Small change in a goldfish pond in a Buddhist temple

Diversity of Fauna and Flora in Yunnan

Yunnan remains the province with the greatest diversity—from 35 ethnic minority people to the flora and fauna, landscapes and food.

3 women of the Yi minority people
3 women of the Yi minority people (彝族)
young ladies in Kunming, Cosplayers showcasing the vibrant influence of ACGN
Youth culture in Kunming: Cosplayers in the historic district showcasing the vibrant influence of ACGN (Animation, Comic, Game, and Novel) trends. [4]
wild figs in Yunnan
Wild Figs in Yunnan Primary Forest
Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna)
Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna)

Yunnan cuisine, with its regional specialties, is surprising, especially the vegetables that grow hidden in the forest or on trees. [5]

edible moss in China
A vibrant salad of Yunnan Tree Moss (树花, Shù Huā) and colorful, fresh ingredients—a culinary highlight from Kunming region’s primary forests.
Entrance to a Wa minority specialty restaurant
Entrance to a Wa minority (佤族) specialty restaurant
braised oxen head
No, we didn’t touch that dish 🙂

Regarding tea: Pu’er is famous for it’s tea, but the elite varieties don’t reach us. The most expensive kilo price was around $825,000. A single infusion would cost us about €4,700. [6] Less known is that Pu’er is also a coffee center (90% Arabica). Even “Starsucks” grows here. [7]

Drying coffee beans in Pu Er
Drying coffee beans in Pu Er

Planning and Logistics

It goes without saying that good planning and preparation were essential for such a complicated trip with a packed schedule. Without the help of AI (G. paid version), it wouldn’t have worked with such perfection. There are no guidebooks for these remote places in Yunnan, we needed Chinese characters to direct taxis – and had so many specific questions. As mentioned in previous articles, I have always had a very relaxed attitude towards AI as a research tool, not just on a trip like this when it answered every detailed question—even how a specific Chinese remote control works.

In a way, this stay in Yunnan was a journey through time: a trip into the future regarding technology, and far into the past, making the journey unforgettable.

Red Earth district in Yunnan
time travel: Lady in front of an old Chinese building
A snapshot at the historic estate of the Zu-Family in Jian Shui, on the topic of “time travel”.

Some Extra Fun

Confucius and Confusion
Confucius and Confusion – not every translation into English comes across perfectly.
international laundry
“International Laundry”
Buddhist monk
inclusive finance office
“Inclusive Financing Office”

footnotes:

[1] In Jianshui, the ancient wells are traditionally viewed as the “Eyes of the Earth,” representing the vital Yin (nourishing, deep energy) that balances the Yang of the city’s stone walls. Legends suggest these wells allow the subterranean dragon on which the city rests to breathe, ensuring prosperity and clear water for the community. This delicate balance between the structural and the flowing remains a cornerstone of local identity and the famous Jianshui tofu culture.

[2] Rosaliene Bacchus writes excellent articles on her highly recommended blog Three Worlds One Vision about the view of the world from an indigenous perspective.

[3] Recent data (2025–2026) shows a significant gap in mutual perception: while roughly 73% of the US population holds a negative view of China, the sentiment in China remains more nuanced. The lasted trend is more postive: Pew Research Center: Americans’ views of China more positive again in 2026

[4] Another “Time Travel” aspect mentioned in this article. Within a few meters, you can move from a traditional market or an ancient well to a scene that looks like futuristic video games or a fantasy manga. In cities like Kunming, it is very common for young people to walk through shopping districts or historic streets in full cosplay or Lolita fashion. It is a way to express individuality and a shared love for fictional universes.

[5] The area is also famous for its variety of edible mushrooms – but I think I’d better avoid to start with the culinary aspects 🙂

[6] The mentioned price of approximately $825,000 per kilogram refers to “antique” or legendary Pu’er cakes from the late Qing Dynasty or early 20th century. However hese are investment assets rather than mere beverages.

[7] Pu’er has emerged as the “coffee capital” of China, producing over 90% of the nation’s Arabica beans. This growth is significantly driven by international cooperation, most notably through the said company’s China Farmer Support Center established in Pu’er in 2012.

Comments

39 responses to “Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey”

  1. Hangaku Gozen avatar

    I can see in your nature photos the striking influence the landscape must have had on Chinese painting, and on yours as well! The twisting tree trunks, the waves of color and line in the vistas, even the play of shadow like brushstrokes in the grass. Did you have a chance to paint or sketch while you were in Yunnan? And I’m guessing Google Translate doesn’t work well in a place with limited internet or mobile phone service.

    Beautiful photos of a beautiful place; I would love to travel to Yunnan if it became a little more accessible for travelers who aren’t fluent Chinese speakers. (I’m trying to learn, but the tones require re-training the Anglophone ear.)

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much! Yes, you’re absolutely right, it’s hard to escape the influence of landscape and culture. No, I didn’t draw a single line, as I would have done in the past. But I gathered many impressions and observed a great deal.

      The internet connection is generally pretty good. It has to be, because everywhere you pay with mobile apps. However, various foreign services, especially social media, are only accessible via VPN. In general, I didn’t have any major problems, although sometimes it was difficult.

      Yes, mastering the tones in Chinese is very challenging. But people in rural areas usually have problems with it too 🙂

  2. Dominik Alexander avatar

    Thanks for another great inside article about your journeys, Friedrich. Love your travelling philosophy and wish it was common for everyone travelling. That’s why we travel, I think: learning about other people and their cultures. But some people only want their “Schnitzel” at every tiny spot in the world…

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Dominik! You’re absolutely right! And in terms of action and reaction, we’re currently seeing more and more people in tourist destinations, including in Europe, taking to the streets to protest against unruly tourists. I’m also constantly shocked when I see tourists in their all-inclusive resorts piling so much more food onto their plates than they can possibly eat, food that’s wasted while just a few kilometers away, the local population is starving.

      1. Dominik Alexander avatar

        I’m definitely in a state of “Fremdscham”, when I accidentially come across people from my country who behave like they own the very place and people. That’s not in my DNA and I won’t ever understand such behaviour.

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Whatever the reason may be (“we have been paying so much for the trip”, going on vacation – letting loose, social media role models, uncontrolled alcohol consumption…), it is a development that needs to be corrected.

  3. Martina Ramsauer avatar

    Many thanks, Friedrich, for your great post concerning China or Yunnan, and I understand that there have already been visible changes between the present and when we were there approx. twenty years ago!

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Martina! Yes, things looked very different 20 years ago. For years I flew to Shanghai 1-3 times a year (almost always staying at the same hotel) and so much had always changed in the area. The progress is incredible and often almost frightening.

      1. Martina Ramsauer avatar

        Yes, you certainly made exceptionnel experiences in China! I remember, for example when we were near the Mongolian border people from the surrounding were dancing on a square and they invited us to participate! All the best Martina

  4. Stan Stewart - muz4now avatar

    As has always been true of your travel reflections, I am deeply moved by your gentle honoring of your “hosts”. Even when you express some personal response (such as no cash), it is barely a footnote compared with your eloquent descriptions of local people, sights, and customs.
    Thank you. In a world that too often seems overtaken by self-aggrandizement and hatred towards “the other”, your travelogue gives me hope and inspiration.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Stan! Yes, things have definitely changed for the worse for us Westerners. I still vividly remember how, in the early 70s, friends who had hitchhiked (!) to India told me how hospitable the Afghans were. Hospitality is still an important value in quite a few parts of the world. But it takes two to tango…

      1. Stan Stewart - muz4now avatar

        My spouse often reminds me that relationship is of utmost importance. And she is rarely (if ever) talking about our relationship…

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        She is so right! 🙏 We cannot have no relationships. Tango again 😂 🎶☀️🍷🌷

  5. Monkey's Tale avatar

    A wonderful overview of your trip. I agree, people in the world are generally good, it’s just unfortunate ao many bad apples are having their day right now. Maggie

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much, Maggie! Yes, everywhere you go, you find all kinds of people, and there are always deep-seated reasons why they act one way or another. In the Buddhist sense, our unhappiness stems from the fact that we “separate” things. If we can be less quick to judge or feel superior, so much is already gained. Have a wonderful weekend!

  6. swabby429 avatar

    One of the many benefits of extended visits to a country is how well stereotypes are demolished. Governments and corporations do not represent rank and file people very well, if at all.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you! You’re absolutely right: “Governments and corporations don’t represent ordinary people particularly well, if at all.” Some here assume that everyone in China stands behind their government, but that’s not the case at all. Then again, we’re currently seeing in another major country just how difficult it is for an individual to take action—especially when kept on a very short leash.

  7. Spira avatar

    Kazantzakis once wrote about traveling: ” Είναι ο τρόπος να ξεπεράσουμε το ζουρλοπερήφανο εγώ μας” Traveling is a way to get over our crazy-proud ego”.

    And depending on the ” eyes” we use during our trips, we have indeed a choice.
    Yours, Friedrich, is clearly visible not only to the people inhabiting the places you visit but to us readers of your profound impressions.
    Thank you for taking us along another journey of yours, one with different kind if brushstrokes.

    ( yes, cash is a bastion of freedom… the sooner people realize that fighting crime etc is only an excuse, the better.)

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Nick! And thank you for the wonderful Kazantzakis quote. Your kind words touch me as always.

      Yes, I also think that if we are monitored even further through our financial transactions, we will be completely transparent.

  8. Yami avatar

    I really like the conversational quality of this blog post. Thankyou for sharing your beautiful journey and beautiful observations.

    You had me at the “starsucks” 😀

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much for your kind words and your willingness to appreciate my “humor” 🙂

  9. […] Source: Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey: A Candid Reflection – Friedrich Zettl […]

  10. Emma Cownie avatar

    Absolutely fascinating. I loved the “meaningless coffee” if only Western coffeee shops were as frank! we studied the History of China at secondary school and I later taught a GSCE unit on Maoist China to teeangers – all very interesting especially the williness to embrace digital currency.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Emma! Ha, yes, but often the Chinese coffee tasted very good. A real coffee boom has developed in the major cities. You usually get an “Americano”—but often espresso too.

      Maoist thinking still lingers a bit, of course, but some of the younger generation doesn’t even know who Mao is anymore, and nobody’s interested in worn-out ideology; most people are just busy making a living – economy is not really good, especially since Covid and tensions with the USA.

      As for digital money: the Chinese have always been pragmatic, and I haven’t observed any aversion to digital payments. It’s become second nature and is seen as convenient. We did carry cash with us and sometimes tipped, especially the taxi drivers who drove us hundreds of kilometers and then had to return empty-handed.

  11. Suzanne et Pierre avatar

    Great and very informative post. Thanks for taking us on this fascinating journey. (Suzanne)

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Suzanne, I’m so glad! There’s so much to tell 🙂 All the best!

  12. Ashley avatar

    A fascinating read. There is so much to take in. Have a great weekend, Friedrich. 🙇‍♂️

  13. Rosaliene Bacchus avatar

    Very interesting post, Friedrich. It’s amazing the way that modern technology has reached this region.

  14. Martha Kennedy avatar

    Thank you, Friedrich! This is wonderful.

  15. andreazurucker avatar

    Interesting! Makes me want to travel to China again. I was there only once, and only in Beijing – and that was more than 20 years ago. Would be interesting to see the changes.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much. I think you’d hardly recognize Beijing anymore. It’s changed so much. I lived in Beijing for five years and have no interest in visiting it again. All the best!

  16. Misky avatar

    What I appreciate most in this article, Friedrich, is the heartfelt and genuine way you present the visual richness of Yunnan, balanced by the depth and substance of your experience. Open-eyed. Uncompromising. Deeply moved by all that remains with you. Never critical, nor mocking of difference or tradition. It is rare for a travel diary to avoid those missteps.

    I’ve very much enjoyed following your journey. Thank you.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you, dear Marilyn, and I’m glad we see things the same way. Just yesterday I read an article about a Western influencer in South Korea being sentenced to six months of hard labor for filming an obscene video clip with a statue. This behavior would be the complete opposite 🙂

      1. Misky avatar

        This brought to mind Molly Malone’s statue in Dublin https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c07z2pxejyxo

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Oh! 🤪 I have an old Buddha statue of stone, surface a bit rough but one side of the face and hands is shiny as so many people have touched it for good luck.

  17. Marianne Weber avatar
    Marianne Weber

    Ich könnte stundenlang weiterlesen, so interessant dieser Reiseverlauf. Vielen lieben Dank für die schönen Fotos und die tollen Eindrücken die du gut vermittelt hast lieber Fritz.Liebe Grüße von Marianne

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Vielen Dank, das freut mich sehr! Liebe Gruesse zurueck 🙏🎶🍷☀️🌷

  18. JMN avatar

    Beautiful and informative!

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much! Have a great weekend!

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