Journey to Shaxi (沙溪)
On the way from Dali to Shaxi, we passed through Fengyu (凤羽). It’s a quiet, traditional town, famous for its intricate stone carvings and inkstones. A good place to see the rural side of Yunnan before entering the Shaxi valley.
Authentic Flavors
We had lunch there and the restaurant was simple yet charming. Pieces of meat were hanging from a tree outside, air-drying in the mountain breeze—a traditional sight in this part of Yunnan.
The people here are incredibly kind and hospitable. This woman even asked if she could share her rice with me.
The region is famous for its intricate woodblock prints (木版画 – Mùbǎnhuà).
A Quick Chat
I had a short conversation during a cigarette break with this 90-year-old man. He’s still incredibly sharp and mentally fit.
This lady told me that she still performs kowtows (磕头 – Kētóu) in front of the ancestral shrine for half an hour every single day.
The Landmark: Yujin Bridge (玉津桥)
Just outside the village core, the Yujin Bridge crosses the Heihui River. This stone arch bridge was a vital part of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road (茶马古道). Early in the morning, the mist rises from the water, creating a still, almost mystical atmosphere. It’s the best spot to witness the timeless pace of life here.
Unexpected fun in Shaxi
And then I ran into Charlie Chaplin—or at least the Charlie Chaplin of Shaxi (沙溪). We hit it off immediately and had a great time together. The encounter ended with him drawing a portrait of me.
The Heart of Shaxi: Sideng Square (寺登街)
The center of the village is dominated by the Old Theatre (古戏台). It stands directly opposite the Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺).
The theatre wasn’t just built for the people; it was constructed so the gods in the temple could enjoy the music and performances. In the local belief, entertaining the divine ensures harmony and a good harvest. The architecture is a perfect example of the Yin and Yang balance—the spiritual silence of the temple facing the vibrant energy of the stage.
You often see pretty young women in elaborate traditional costumes. Most come from the city specifically to take photos for their social media followers. It’s a strange but common sight—modern digital life meeting the ancient stone backdrop of Shaxi.
The tea caravans of the past once traveled through this very alley leading to the bridge. It was a key section of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road (茶马古道 – Chámǎ Gǔdào), where horses laden with tea and salt moved between Yunnan, Tibet, and beyond.
Shaxi’s Modern Side
The village now also features very chic boutiques. Both inside and out, they are easily on par with their Western counterparts. It’s a sharp contrast to the mud-brick walls and ancient cobbles, showing how Shaxi is evolving while keeping its aesthetic.
This man was clearly costumed just to add “local color” to the scenery. It’s a worrying sign. I fear this wonderful, quiet place will soon share the fate of Lijiang or Dali Old Town —becoming a theme-park version of itself. We were lucky to see and experience the remaining authenticity while it’s still here.
Additional Remarks
One of the main reasons locals often seek me out for a photo or a chat is the total lack of foreign tourists. In Kunming and Dali, we saw a handful, but here, independent travel is almost impossible. Just using the digital payment apps is a massive hurdle to overcome.
If you travel by taxi like we do—anything else would be extremely tedious—you’ve reached the limit of what’s doable on your own. Without my better half, I would be mostly unable to organize the daily program.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I, Part II, Part III, Part IV, Part V, Part VI, Part VII, Part VIII, Part IX
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