Journey to Shaxi (沙溪)
On the way from Dali to Shaxi, we passed through Fengyu (凤羽). It’s a quiet, traditional town, famous for its intricate stone carvings and inkstones. A good place to see the rural side of Yunnan before entering the Shaxi valley.
Authentic Flavors
We had lunch there and the restaurant was simple yet charming. Pieces of meat were hanging from a tree outside, air-drying in the mountain breeze—a traditional sight in this part of Yunnan.
The people here are incredibly kind and hospitable. This woman even asked if she could share her rice with me.
The region is famous for its intricate woodblock prints (木版画 – Mùbǎnhuà).
A Quick Chat
I had a short conversation during a cigarette break with this 90-year-old man. He’s still incredibly sharp.
This lady told me that she still performs kowtows (磕头 – Kētóu) in front of the ancestral shrine for half an hour every single day. Other encounters with everyday religious practice appear in Customs, Traditions, and Religion.
The Landmark: Yujin Bridge (玉津桥)
Just outside the village core, the Yujin Bridge crosses the Heihui River. This stone arch bridge was a vital part of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road (茶马古道). Early in the morning, mist rose from the water. I enjoyed the quiet along the river before the village became busy.
Unexpected Fun in Shaxi
And then I ran into Charlie Chaplin—or at least the Charlie Chaplin of Shaxi (沙溪). We hit it off immediately and had a great time together. The encounter ended with him drawing a portrait of me.
The Heart of Shaxi: Sideng Square (寺登街)
The center of the village is dominated by the Old Theatre (古戏台). It stands directly opposite the Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺).
Temple theatre traditionally brought performance and religious life together: the gods, as well as the people, could be understood as its audience. Here, the stage faces the temple across the square. Both belong to the Shaxi Market Area restored with the World Monuments Fund.
We often saw young women posing for photographs in elaborate traditional-style costumes. The carefully arranged photos against the old stone walls made an interesting meeting of contemporary life and Shaxi’s historic setting.
Shaxi was a trading stop on the Ancient Tea-Horse Road (茶马古道 – Chámǎ Gǔdào), the network of caravan routes linking Yunnan with Tibet and other regions. Walking through these alleys, I found myself imagining the pack animals and traders who once passed through the town. Later stops in Lushi and Nakeli continue this journey along the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
Shaxi’s Modern Side
The village now also features very chic boutiques. Both inside and out, they are easily on par with their Western counterparts. It’s a sharp contrast to the mud-brick walls and ancient cobbles, showing how Shaxi is evolving while keeping its aesthetic.
Seeing this man in traditional-style clothing made me wonder how long this wonderful, quiet place can retain its character before following the path of places such as Lijiang or Dali Old Town.
Additional Remarks
During our January 2026 stay, we met few other foreign visitors. Perhaps that partly explains why people so often approached me for a photo or a chat. In Kunming and Dali, we had seen a handful more.
We relied on taxis for much of our travel between places. Arranging the daily program would have been difficult for me without my better half. Her help made these spontaneous stops and encounters possible.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I – Spring Greetings · Part II – Just Shaxi · Part III – Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Part IV – Every Day an Adventure · Part V – Pure Dao · Part VI – Along the Tea Road · Part VII – South of the Clouds · Part VIII – Customs, Traditions and Religion · Part IX – Buddha’s Light · Part X – Afterthoughts on the Yunnan Journey
Related Articles
Spring Greetings · Density, Depth, Tradition and Authenticity · Along the Tea Road
Explore Art & Writing
Art Portfolio → Featured Artworks → Arts & Philosophy Journal → All Articles
Explore Asian Art Essays for writing on Chinese painting, calligraphy, aesthetics and art history.
Available Artworks
Original works are available on FriedrichZettl.com and Saatchi Art
Leave a Reply