Yunnan Spring Greetings (IV)
“Every day an adventure, every day a joy.” It might sound a bit cliché, but here, one experience really does chase the next. We actually cancelled our planned trip to Mangshi (芒市) because Heshun and its surroundings simply have too much to offer. A couple we are friends with drove all the way from Beijing, accompanied by another couple, just to see us. After a proper reunion feast, we set off the next day to find seven historic bridges.
Seven Ancient Bridges Trip
Bridges have always fascinated me, primarily because they connect. This observation has even shaped my outlook on life.
At the very first bridge, we ran into a problem—we were hopelessly lost in an extremely remote area. Then we saw an old lady, 83 years old. She immediately offered to show us the way – it was a long walk. I was the first foreigner she had ever seen, but she wasn’t shy in the slightest. We chatted away, with each of us understanding only half of what the other said.
This encounter led to this photo, which is already one of my favorites of the trip.
A Note to my Readers:
I am keeping the text short this time because my last article (Yunnan III) didn’t appear in the WordPress Reader. Until that is fixed, I’ll be brief. Even with a VPN, I currently can’t always comment on friends’ posts.
Engineering without Nails
The bridges we visited were all built around the mid-18th century. They appear fragile or dilapidated from a distance, but once you step inside, you are surprised by how intact they remain. These structures are marvels of Qing Dynasty engineering, constructed entirely from wood without using a single nail.
They rely on complex mortise and tenon joints (Sun Mao), a technique that allows the timber to shift and settle without breaking, making them incredibly resilient against time and the elements. They are not just crossings, but “Wind and Rain Bridges”—sheltered spaces meant for the community to gather.
Some photos from that area.
The Taoist Heights: Yunfeng Shan
Next, a few words on the impressive Yunfeng Shan.
Yunfeng Shan, or “Cloud Peak Mountain,” is a sacred Taoist site in Tengchong (腾冲), famous for its temple perched precariously on a sharp, solitary peak that seems to pierce the sky. It has been a site of pilgrimage for centuries, symbolizing the difficult ascent toward spiritual enlightenment.
Accessing the temple is an adventure in itself. A shuttle bus and a cable car take you quite high up, but then 676 steps await you. That might not sound like much, but the final third is extremely steep and draining, especially combined with the high altitude. The reward for the effort is a fantastic 360° view—and a slight sunburn.
After this fifth exhausting mountain climb, it has become clear: we need to shift down a gear.
The Extinct Volcanoes and Hot Springs of Tengchong
The region around Tengchong (腾冲) is dotted with countless hot springs—some reaching temperatures high enough to actually boil eggs in them. The charming landscape, shaped by extinct volcanoes, is best experienced from the basket of a hot air balloon.
The Kingdom of Camellias
Yunnan is widely revered as the “Kingdom of Camellias” (山茶花), hosting over 35 endemic species and more than 500 distinct cultivated varieties. The most celebrated among them is the Camellia reticulata (滇山茶), a symbol of the province known for its resilient beauty and massive, intricate blooms that have been cherished here for over a millennium.
More Yunnan Spring Greetings: Part I, Part II, Part III, Part IV, Part V, Part VI, Part VII, Part VIII, Part IX
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