mogao caves of 1000 Buddhas

The Silk Road: Personal Reflections

On the Occasion of a Centennial Exhibition at the British Museum.

From a young age, I was fascinated by distant countries, with Asia capturing my imagination the most. This passion led me to study Sinology, and my first academic work focused on the Silk Road, particularly the Chinese starting point in Gansu province and the city of Dunhuang (敦煌市).

With the British Museum in London currently hosting a centennial exhibition on the Silk Road, I am inspired to reflect on my personal connection to this topic.

Tang Dynasty camel as treasure of silk road
A bellow you can almost hear … the ceramic figure of a camel from eighth-century China. Photograph: ©The Trustees of the British Museum

Introduction to the Silk Road

My interest in the Silk Road began in my childhood, influenced by the books of Karl May, a German author known for his adventure novels. [1] Despite recent controversies and censorship attempts, May’s stories about distant lands and the deep friendships between characters of different cultures left a lasting impression on me.

books in my childhood
Books from my childhood with a formative character.

One of May’s settings was the Arabian desert, where a Christian protagonist (Kara Ben Nemsi) and his Muslim friend, Hadschi Halef Omar Ben Hadschi Abul Abbas Ibn Hadschi Dawud al Gossarah, faced numerous adventures together. These stories emphasized the possibility of deep friendship and mutual respect between different religions and cultures – yet some of his books are banned.

This spring, I fulfilled a childhood dream by visiting Petra in Jordan (my WP article with photos). During the visit, my tour guide pointed out a significant hub of cultural and economic exchange over a thousand years ago: an intersection of trade routes, including the Silk Road.

The map below illustrates the main route of the Silk Road, highlighting its significance in history.

silkroad map

Dun Huang as the starting point of the silk road caravans


During my 5 years in Beijing, I had the opportunity to experience something extraordinary several times. One of these was a trip to Dunhuang and it’s famous Mogao Grottoes. [2] At a time when it was hardly visited even in China itself, because it was a restricted area and could only be visited with special permission. My art history professor, Jin Weinuo (Chinese dunhuangologist – yes, this term really exists), had experts from the West visiting, including the famous American art historian Professor James Cahill [3] and a Japanese professor. A visit to Dunhuang had been planned well in advance. In addition to the three professors, a few Chinese postgraduate students from the academy and three long-nosed people, including myself, were allowed to take part in this study trip.

silk road: dunhuang murals
One of the Mogao Grottoes with its fascinating Buddhist murals and statues.

A special experience in Dunhuang

One incident in particular has stuck in my memory. Having just arrived in Dunhuang, I was sitting with Gerald, a New Zealand colleague and friend, in the late afternoon not far from our modest accommodation in the sand of a dry riverbed, on the edge of which there were caves with Buddhist paintings. I suggested that we should look around on our own the next day. “Why not right away?” said Gerald and so we walked along a rock face that had less significant grottos. Suddenly I saw a trimmed tree trunk leaning against a rock and right next to it, on a higher level, a low entrance to a cave.

Mogao Caves in Dunhuang as starting point of the silk road
The Mogao Grottoes with 492 Buddhist cave temples, dating back over 1,000 years.

Our interest was aroused. We decided to carry the trunk a little way and were able to climb up to the entrance of the cave. We had discovered one of the most important caves by chance, which we did not see in the group, the Mi Gu (Forbidden Cave). Forbidden because all the walls were painted with Tantric images, which were very sexually explicit and therefore not acceptable to the common people.

tantric dunhuang murals from the silk road
Tantric murals in the forbidden cave in Dunhuang © Friedrich Zettl

Dunhuang: A Central Hub on the Silk Roads During the Tang Dynasty and Beyond


Dunhuang, an oasis town located in the Gansu province of China, played a pivotal role as a central hub on the Silk Roads during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD) and in subsequent periods. This strategic location made it a melting pot of cultures, religions, and commerce, significantly influencing the development of the Silk Roads.

Its position at the crossroads of the northern and southern Silk Roads routes made it an essential point for traders, pilgrims, and envoys. The town’s prosperity was basically a result of the flourishing trade of silk, spices, precious stones, and other luxury goods.

As this also includes wine from Persia, which found its way to China this way I would also like to make a brief comment on this. This fact appears in poems by the famous Tang poet Li Bai. I could only vaguely remember the poem until recently. My friend Prof. Wolfgang Kubin has just published a new book with translations of Li Bai’s poems. Again BACOPA Publishing House invited me to illustrate it, but I left it to design the cover.

When I read the manuscript, I came across the poem again in which Li Bai mentioned Persian girls and Wolfgang Kubin finally provided the explanation. The caravans from China brought silk, porcelain, tea, etc. to Persia, and on the return journey goods from Persia reached China. The enterprising Persians not only sent their wines, but also Persian girls. They then served wine in bars in Chang An (now Xi An) [4], the easternmost point of the Silk Road. There, with their grace and dance, they encouraged people to drink. This is how wine came to China.

Wolfgang Kubin und Li Bai

The Li Bai Poem

With a fitting poem by Li Bai, which connects the two ends of the Silk Road, Chang’an, and Persia, we shall conclude our reflections on our topic. [5]

Green bell tree on Qinglong Mountain.

The second Ode (二首之一)

A zither made from the wood of the bluebell from the Dragon Mountain,
I urge the strings and brush the pillars to drink with you,
and watch your face turn red and green.
The Persian maiden makes herself look like a flower.
At the bar, she smiles at the spring wind.
She smiles at it,
and she dances in a silk dress.
If not drunk today, where will you go home to?

琴奏龙门之绿桐,玉壶美酒清若空。
催弦拂柱与君饮,看朱成碧颜始红。
胡姬貌如花,当垆笑春风。
笑春风,舞罗衣,君今不醉将安归?


The exhibition “Silk Road”:

This immersive experience delves into the vast network of trade routes that connected Asia, Africa, and Europe for centuries. The exhibition emphasizes the interconnectedness of civilizations along the Silk Roads. From China to Scandinavia, Africa, and Persia these routes facilitated the spread of religious beliefs, artistic styles, and technological advancements.

Beyond Silk and Spices:

https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2024/sep/24/silk-roads-review-british-museum-london The Guardian’s review highlights that the exhibition goes beyond the traditional image of the Silk Road as a single route for silk and spices. It paints a picture of a complex network with overlapping paths, fostering cultural and intellectual exchange alongside trade.

A Journey Through Time:

Focusing on a specific period between 500 and 1000 AD, the exhibition showcases over 300 objects from various regions and cultures. Visitors can expect to see Chinese ceramics, Byzantine jewelry, and even the earliest known group of chess pieces!

The earliest known group of chess pieces in the world, made of ivory in the AD700s. Excavated in Samarkand, present-day Uzbekistan. Photograph: Tim P Whitby/Getty Images
A Visual Feast:

The review mentions the use of multimedia elements that enhance the experience of being transported back in time with cinematic depictions of breathtaking mountain ranges and the sounds of trade bustling on these ancient pathways.

A Glimpse into the Unknown:

The Guardian notes that the exhibition concludes with a nod to the modern world. It prompts us to reflect on how the Silk Roads serve as an inspiration for understanding today’s globalized world, with its own interconnected networks and cultural exchanges.

footnotes:

[1] Karl May’s Winnetou series, while popular and beloved by many, has also faced significant criticism. They state that May is perpetuating romanticized and inaccurate stereotypes about Native Americans. For some critics he was portraying them as noble savages or one-dimensional figures.

[2] The Mogao Grottoes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Dunhuang, China. They are a collection of over 492 Buddhist cave temples, dating back over 1,000 years. The caves contain thousands of colorful sculptures and murals, depicting various aspects of Buddhist art, culture, and history. They are one of the most significant repositories of Buddhist art in the world. They offer invaluable insights into the cultural and religious exchanges along the Silk Road.

[3] During his time at Berkeley, James Cahill was instrumental in establishing the university’s Center for Asian Art. There he taught numerous courses on Chinese art history and culture. His expertise and passion for Chinese art greatly influenced the field and inspired generations of students. I had the chance to benefit from his knowledge when he taught in Beijing.

[4] Discovered in 1974, the Chang’an Terracotta Army is a vast collection of life-sized terracotta sculptures depicting the armies of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China. These figures had to protect the emperor in his afterlife and are a testament to the power and wealth of the Qin Dynasty.

[5] My modest translation is also based on translations by others, most notably Prof. Kubin himself, whose book is in German.

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Comments

50 responses to “The Silk Road: Personal Reflections”

  1. satyam rastogi avatar

    Nice article 🌺beautiful pictures 🌺

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much for your kind words! All the best 🌺🌺🌺

      1. satyam rastogi avatar

        Welcome dear friend 🌺🌺

  2. azurea20 avatar

    Interesante reportaje, imágenes y descripción. He viajado contigo.
    Las ilustraciones de tus cuentos de infancia
    preciosas.
    Gracias por este regalo.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      ¡Muchas gracias desde el fondo de mi corazón! ¡Saludos cordiales y deseos desde Viena!

  3. luisa zambrotta avatar

    Thank you so much for sharing such a well-researched, fantastic article.
    Loved it a lot

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      You are so kind, Luisa! Thank you very much!

      1. luisa zambrotta avatar

        You’re very welcome! 🌹

  4. Spira avatar

    🙏
    May your weekend be wonderful, Friedrich.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      The same to you Nick!

  5. Stan Stewart - muz4now avatar

    You have such a breadth of knowledge and experience! Impressive and inspiring.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you so much, Stan! But I know that I know nothing. And yet there are so many destinations that I cannot visit in this lifetime. 🙂

  6. weisserwatercolours avatar

    I am forever learning from you and it is as fascinating as it is inspiring. Your tactile expressions/explorations of the divine rivet my eyes as their tensions become overwhelmed by an overall peace of mind and heart. These historical journeys help me connect with what has gone before. I have visited the border of Jordan and Israel from the Israeli side and found the desert such a force, such a force. Powerful, threatening, welcoming, cleansing, gorgeous in its absence of the familiar, a beckoning, a return to our innermost origins.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much for your kind and encouraging words! Yes, the desert can be very exciting, it makes us aware of how small we really are and invites us to reflect.

      BTW: Danish archaeologists discovered dough remains of a 14,400-year-old flatbread in Jordan. This discovery is particularly remarkable because it has revolutionized our understanding of early human nutrition.

  7. Ashley avatar

    I’m not surprised that you were enthralled by May’s books if the drawing above was typical of them. I too would have been captivated! Another fascinating post as we learn from your wonderful experiences. Thank you, Friedrich. NB. in a recent news reports I read that about 20 years ago researchers found ancient Chinese mummies buried in Xiaohe Cemetery (Bronze Age). When tests were done recently to find out what the substance was around their necks it turns out to be preserved cheese! The world’s most mature cheese at 3600 years old!

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thanks again, Ashley! Yes, it is true! “A groundbreaking discovery in 2003 revealed that the ancient Chinese mummies buried in the Xiaohe Cemetery had traces of a 3,600-year-old cheese on their bodies. This made it the oldest known cheese ever found.  

      The cheese was identified as kefir, a fermented dairy product similar to yogurt.

      It was discovered on the mummies’ necks and heads, likely placed there as a ritual offering or perhaps as a snack for the afterlife. This fascinating find sheds light on the ancient practices and dietary habits of the Xiaohe people.”

  8. The Sicilian Storyteller avatar

    A visually gorgeous and mentally stimulating post, Fred! I envy you the ability to travel the world relatively unencumbered. There were many places I wish I could have visited; alas, that was not possible and so I live vicariously through decorating … each room in my house represents a different country. Some of the countries are Morocco, China, Cuba, Italy, Africa, France, India, Egypt and England. Thank you for another finely researched write, Fred.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you Nancy! Your idea with the different decorations is wonderful! When I was a child I spent my holidays with my grandparents and my grandfather showed me a school (in Berndorf). Each class was in a different style: Greek, Roman, Egyptian… I was soooo fascinated!

      1. The Sicilian Storyteller avatar

        Thank you, Fred. What a wonderful idea for a school! I love our house, especially the Cuban room which happens to be our sunroom with three walls of windows. I spend many hours in there working on my plants and writing, with photos of Hemingway for inspiration.

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Blessed you are! When I was in Barcelona a few years ago, I liked to visit a bar that Hemingway frequented. He still brings money into the bar’s coffers today 🙂

  9. Rosaliene Bacchus avatar

    Praise for children books that open our young minds to faraway places with diverse cultures! The British Museum’s centennial exhibition on the Silk Road sounds like a must-see.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you, Rosaliene! Yes, children’s books are so important and have a big influence on our later reading habits. I don’t know enough about the current market, but my impression is that you need patience to find something suitable for little friends.

      1.  avatar
        Anonymous

        P.S. Have you read The Desert and the Sown by Gertrude Bell? Beautiful book

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Thank you so much for your kindness! No, unfortunately not. My mother tongue is German and it was only relatively late that I learned enough English to read more appealing books. I’ll see if I can get one of hers. She also writes about Syria – we probably won’t be able to visit there any time soon.

  10. Martha Kennedy avatar

    My European students used to ask me all the time about the “Winnetou” and were really puzzled when I’d never heard of it. They thought it was real.

    Thank you so much for this amazing post.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you Martha! But “Winnetou” really does exist!

      If you don’t believe it, I’ll find the childhood photo that shows me in full Winnetou costume. OK, at a carnival party, next to all my other friends in Winnetou costumes 🙂

      As part of the article, I read “Through the Desert” again – after 60 years. I stick to it: the finest adventure literature for children. Marked by deep humanism and understanding for other cultures and ways of life.

      1. Martha Kennedy avatar

        I was thinking what childhood book influenced my wanderlust. It was Richard Halliburton’s Seven League Boots. It’s not a kid’s book, though I read it when I was a kid. It’s one of those 1930s armchair traveler books that probably got a lot of rural Americans through the Great Depression. It was my mom’s book.

        Among the wonders he visited and wrote of is Petra and that place has inhabited my dreams since I was 7.

        My mom gave me that book while we were in the cellar at my grandma’s house in Montana. “Here, Martha Ann. You might like this.”

        A couple of days later we were on a train (one car; half passenger/half mail) going across Wyoming from Montana to Colorado. I sat on the train’s back “porch” in a wooden chair and read that book while all of green Wyoming passed beside me. I have tried to many times to paint that scene but every time it’s just a picture of a little girl and a book. The magic is impossible. That book defined my life in many ways. So…there is definitely a Winnetou.

      2. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Oh Martha, I’m always surprised at how similar things have been in both of our lives. Yes, it’s exactly these books that have shaped us. As for your train journey: In your honor, I’ll write about a similar experience in my next post. However, I was painting on a ship. And, you won’t believe it, yesterday I started a painting with a little girl who is immersed in a book and lost in her imagination 🙂

      3. Martha Kennedy avatar

        It’s uncanny, Friedrich. As I read your post, I saw Richard Halliburton’s black and white photo of Petra in my mind’s eye and thought, “Friedrich got to see it!”

      4. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Ha! Did you see my Petra photos? I guess some places there haven’t changed since Richard Halliburtons trip.

      5. Martha Kennedy avatar

        Somehow I missed your Petra photos. Where would I find them?

        I recently learned about an archeological site along the Red Sea in southern Europe. Now I’m all “in love with” that — wow. What magic.

        http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/hidden-ancient-egyptian-port-reveals-180984485/

      6. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

        Thank you Martha, for the link! WOW! Seems pretty fascinating – I will read it later. I should start packing 🙂 Here is the link to the Petra article: https://zettl.blog/2024/03/petra-and-sharm-el-sheikh/

      7. Martha Kennedy avatar

        Thank you!

  11. julianeus avatar

    Great! thanks! ✌✨✌

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you from the bottom of my heart! ✌✨✌

  12. Misky avatar

    A splendid post, words as rich as the history it describes. And an utterance fills my head, “What are borders after all?”.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much! Yes, “What are borders after all?” And above all, what is the point of the borders that we set for ourselves in our heads?

  13. swabby429 avatar

    In a manner of thinking, the Silk Road was the Internet of its heyday. It is a fascinating topic that deserves more attention.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much! Yes, we know far too little about it. Since it is only a marginal topic of my interest, I am always surprised with every book or article I read about it. I feel the same way about Chinggis Khan and the routes of the Mongols in Asia and Europe.

  14. marzia avatar

    Hello, the location of Petra has been in my dreams for a long time. I am a 70 year old lady who loves archaeology.
    In our times we are once again talking about the ‘Silk Road’: the concept of the “Silk Road” once again enters the collective imagination. You will certainly know the journey made by Marco Polo.
    Thank you for your contribution which I found very exhaustive.

    https://www.raicultura.it/storia/articoli/2019/01/Marco-Polo-2fed8146-ff21-46e7-9745-9f06ee02560c.html

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Hello and thank you very much! I’m also 70, so a good age to explore Petra 🙂 Yes, of course, Marco Polo! Thank you for the link! But when I think of the Silk Road I think above all of Otto Fischer & Co, or the English adventurers who ruthlessly plundered the caves. Yes, archaeology is an exciting subject. All the best!

  15. Cindy Georgakas avatar

    What a beautiful sharing of your young years and the incredible history of the “Silk Road” and architecture! 🙏🏼💕

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you, Cindy from the bottom of my black heart 🖤🎶💕

  16. G78UDY avatar

    Win

  17.  avatar
    Anonymous

    What a series of experiences you have had and what knowledge you share. Thank you for another fascinating account Friedrich.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      How kind of you to say so ☺️ Many thanks 🙏 and all the best! ☀️🎶🌼🍸

  18. Carolyn Kaiser Harmon avatar

    Your life is so rich! Thank you for sharing.

    1. Zettl Fine Arts avatar

      Thank you very much 🙏 I am not so sure – but yes probably. Have a wonderful day 💓🌹☀️🍸

  19. […] a photo after she shared her attempts to sketch the passing landscape during a train journey in my last article. She wrote: “We were on a train (one car; half passenger/half mail) going across Wyoming from […]

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